 |
| |
| |
| |
 |
|
|
| |
| ------------------------- |
 |
| ------------------------- |
|
| |
|
|
 |
 Island
Peak (6,160m) |
| |
 This
is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingboche
the mountain is seen as an island in a sea of ice. The
summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated
west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier. The mountain
itself is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse
Shar separated by a small col. The ridge rising to the
south from this point leads to the summit of Island
Peak. The extension of this ridge descending southwest
is the part of the normal route of ascent and leads
to the South Summit. Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable
climb but also provides some of the most spectacular
scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from
the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse
(8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar
(8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views
of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam
in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak. |
| |
| South
East Flank & South-West Ridge |
Normally,
the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between
Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier.
It should not be forgotten that the place is more
likely for avalanche in the event of heavy snowfall.
From the base camp, an well-acclimatized party in
good conditions can make the summit and return to
the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers
prefer alpine style camping at high camp,
which helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the
route skirts southeast around and base of Imja Tse
and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps.
We scramble up on open gully which leads between two
ridges to the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge
below and to the right of a small hanging glacier
(5, 280m). From the high camp, the left hands ridge
scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing
a gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for
nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near
the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing.
|
| |
| Itinerary |
|
Day
01 |
Khamandu - Lukla by flight. Trek to Phakding. |
|
Day
02 |
Namche Bazaar. |
|
Day
03 |
Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization. |
|
Day
04 |
Khumjung. |
|
Day
05 |
Dole. |
|
Day
06 |
Machermo. |
|
Day
07 |
Gokyo - Gokyo Ri - Na. |
|
Day
08 |
Pangboche. |
|
Day
09 |
Phortse. |
|
Day
10 |
Chhukhung. |
|
Day
11 |
Island Peak Base Camp. |
|
Day
12 |
Rest at Base Camp |
|
Day
13 |
High Camp. |
|
Day
14 |
Summit - Chhukhung. |
|
Day
15 |
Dingboche. |
|
Day
16 |
Tengboche. |
|
Day
17 |
Namche Bazaar. |
|
Day
18 |
Lukla. |
|
Day
19 |
Lukla - Kathmandu by flight. |
|
| |
|
| |
|
|
