| Camp 1: After a 3
hrs walk you will reach camp 1 or advanced base camp 5700m.
After that you will have to walk the distance of 500m
with the Elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Pumori
has many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and expose
to wind narrow ridges, some Ice walls, and one tunnel
climb. Some times you may need fixed ropes also.
Camp 2: starts at 6200m. it is located
on a narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches.
The next 400m. is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees, more
5m. are the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger
avalanche danger from big scars hanging from the shoulder
of 6500m.
Camp 3: , it is too windy. At the
height of 6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau;
and you need rope here because of many crevasses and
ice walls way to summit. After that there are two climbing
ranges; one from Tibet side and other is from Nepal
side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier
to Pumori Summit. After this walk to Summit is easy
to reach on the summit of Pumori 7145m.
Normal route: This is the easier route
to climb this peak and most of the expedition coteries
climbed this peak so far have used this route. As you
know Pumori is not easy as like the other mountains,
there are difficult technical parts in this route as
well. We suggest you; you should take climbing Sherpa
and who will guide you to reach the Summit.
You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to
reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorak
Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you
can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m. around
the phase of Mt. Pumori.
You should set second camp at the ridge after the phase
at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for
this peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should set camp
3 at the altitude of 6,480m, around the corner after
the ridge.
You can ascend summit from the camp 3 to the top of
Pumori. Most of the climbers use this route for the
expedition to Mt. Pumori in every year.
South - West ridge: Some very few
climbers tried this route, but it is very difficult
routes. This route follows directly from the top of
Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge nearly by
75 Degree. As this route have lots of technical difficulties.
We suggest you to use the normal route for the Mt. Pumori
and you & your group will comfortably reach the
Top. For the more information please check Himalayan
Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997. This book
written by Climber who have been scaled the Mt. Pumori.
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