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Dhaulagiri (8167m.)
was first climbed by the Swiss in 1960. Its name is
derived from Sanskrit "dhavala means" means
"White" and girl is "Mountain" The
Mountain was sighted by British surveyors in India in
the early 1800s and was mapped by one of the secret
Indian surveyors, the pundits, in 1873, but the region
remained largely unknown until a Swiss aerial survey
in 1949.
The French Annapurna expedition in
1950 had permission to climb either Annapurna or Dhaulagiri
but decided on Annapurna after a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri.
A Swiss party failed in 1953 as did an Argentine group
one year later.
After four more expeditions had failed,
eight members of a Swiss expedition reached the summit
in 1960. The climb followed a circuitous route around
the mountain from Tukuche, over Dhampus pass as French
Col, to approach the summit from the North-East Col.
The expedition was supplied by a Swiss Pilatus Porter
aircraft, the "Yeti" which landed on the North-East
Col at 5977m.
Near the end of the expedition the
plane crashed near Dhampus pass and the pilots, including
the famous Emil Wick, walked down the mountain to Tukuche.
Tragedy struck in 1969 when an avalanche
killed seven members of a US expedition on the East
Dhaulagiri Glacier. The peak was climbed by the Japanese
in 1970s, the Americans in 1973 and the Italians in
1976. Captain Emil Wick airdropped supplies to the US
expedition from a Pilatus Porter aircrafts. Among the
delicacies he dropped were two bottles of wine and a
live chicken. The Sherpas would not allow the chicken
to be killed on the mountain, so it became the expedition
pet. It was carried, snow-blind and crippled with frostbitten
feet, to Marpha, where it finally ended up in the cooking
pot.
Dhaulagiri 8167m, Expedition
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